Local Ice Climbing

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Moffat Tunnel

These two are on the south face of the ridge that comes down from Forest Lakes. The right climb has some interesting short pillars, but it's more of a mixed route with a good chimney start.


There are also two more smaller slab areas a few hundred yards further west of this area. These are barely worth the trudge uphill through the very deep snow, but they can be fun for beginners as they're very low angle. I've gone ice bouldering on them, but they aren't high enough or steep enough to get a good workout.

This is the left climb from the above photo with a snowshoe for comparison. (grade 3-4 ?)

This is across the valley from the previous climbs with my pack for a size comparison. (grade 2-3 ?) You get to this one by walking a very short distance up the Boulder Creek trail, and then head off towards your left through thick trees. It's easy to miss the climb in the woods unless there is a trail already, which there usually is.

Indian Peaks Wilderness

Most of the climbs in the Indian Peaks are more frozen snow gulleys and more mountaineering stuff. There are a few pure ice climbs though, but most are inaccessible all winter unless you like very long approaches. unsuitable for day trips.

This is a beautiful climb that's probably one of the finest mixed routes in the Indian Peaks. (grade 5) The route follows the deep chimney in the corner. The second pitch has a variation finish, although neither usually makes it all the way down to the ledge.

This is the first pitch looking straight up. Although it looks low angle in this shot, this is actually a 18 inch wide smear of ice in the back of the chimney that goes up to the ledge. This also rarely seems to make it to the ground, it was in fine shape here.


rob@welcomehome.org